Scooped out of the boundary of Exmoor National Park is the lovely old-fashioned seaside town of Minehead, and along its promenade sits a Butlins holiday camp.
Like many Britons these places are enduringly associated for me with a 1950’s kind of what my parents would call rather ‘common’ - harmless all-inclusive fun. I am suprised but pleased that they survive into the 21st century, but I had literally no idea what to expect as a daytrip visitor. I certainly didn’t expect the frankly massive ticket prices displayed in the entrance pavilion. They seemed high considering that from my viewpoint the windswept funfair wasn’t ‘on’ and a Burger King sign was visible.
I hastily introduced ourselves as just visiting artists wanting to have a look about. Once I had assured them we didnt want to film anything, we were waived in, though not without a slight sense of surveyance.
The main space was a vast canvas tent structure accommodating many highstreet shops and eating places. The roof was impressively engineered and satisfyingly referenced the joyful ‘big top’ / camping references of early Butlins.
Children and young familes quietly and politely queued at the Burger King, they smiled at us as we walked around, calm pervaded what had promised at first glance to be my idea of hell.
It transpired we had walked in to a vast Christian conference filling the entire camp, and as today was ‘changeover day’ our slightly bewildered appearance raised no suspicion. The ‘trade stalls’ exhibited everything from Christian banking services to Evangelical rock schools, no hard sell of course as their occupants believed they were preaching to the converted. I discovered that 80’s diva Yazz had transformed into a hip Christian songstress.
Beyond this pleasure dome were the facilties and accommodation for the ‘campers’. I tried to pick up my email but found the wifi was not free.
Eclectic architecture akin to low-rise student housing sat within neat garden spaces. A small sub-Corbusier Modernist pavilion turned out to be a very recent addition, built as a marketing suite for the camp’s proudest achievement – a upmarket timeshare apartment block built in convincing art deco style. An enthusiastic young salesman appreciated our appreciation of the camp’s classier aspirations.
The crowds thinned out as we walked along the oldest accommodation blocks, endearing 50’s bunglalows with deep eaves, being cleaned by East Europeans. To my satisfaction, we noticed through their low windows that some of the Christians had left their beds unmade.
Abruptly, at the end of one of these avenues, stood a small but substantial white-washed chapel of the style one could see in a small Eastern European village. Pan-tiled roof, small bell-tower, checkered floor tiles. We hesitantly entered. Inside, a small table with a photograph of a young woman, but no campers.
Comments :
Heh, funny that that same Butlins at minehead is also home to the long weekend of party madness that is All Tomorrow's Parties. o
Oh the irony of Christian Weekenders mapped against the Headonism of 3 days of music, drink and drugs. I'm sure it's equally surreal for both.
I believe Angie's mum worked at that Butlins many moons ago...
By Dorian Moore at 2008-04-13 10:57:04
Hallo yes we christians too have 'unmade beds'!
ENJOY YOUR WORK IMMENSELY! Particularly Bataville. I happened to be a delegate at the above mentioned festival and also found that intimately empty chapel.
Isn't the name 'Minehead' misleading? I also was surprised to find myself immersed in a landscape of the 50s.
Noticing the comment in the previous blog I don't think its ironical that a christian fest is mapped against the 'Headonism of 3 days of music, drink & drugs'
By Barbara Dean at 2008-04-23 20:00:13
Hi Karen, I was one of the team who interviewed you for this project - and am enjoying your blog hugely. Have posted this on the Minehead bit, as it has such resonances for me. I used to run the arts project at Musgrove Park Hospital in Taunton, which in those days was also responsible for Minehead Hospital, where I initiated the Trust's first Artist In Residence (and that's another story!). But I used to travel up to Minehead regularly for steering group meetings. A fabulous drive through the edge of the Quantocks, rich, rural, ancient, other worldly...and then, Minehead, like some bewildered place that had been lifted from maybe the Northwest coast of England, and parachuted down into the South west. 'Where am I?' I always felt as I arrived. Never penetrated Butlins, but your description doesnt surprise me. Wonderful surreal stuff! Jacy
By Jacy at 2008-07-25 13:03:42
Hi Jacy, thankyou so much for your kind comments. There's a lady inside the Butlins who I have pestered into finding out more about the church (in so doing I have found out that Butlins itself has an archivist - how great is that) and so that thread keeps going.....
Keep in touch!
By Karen guthrie at 2008-07-25 22:17:43